Hawaii is Amazing and Last year!?

The waves in Hawaii have been so good lately. Yesterday was for sure some of the best waves I have ever seen in my life around lunch time. The waves got so big so quick. In the morning I was at rockys then I cruised to Pipe and stayed there for most of the day, got lunch and came back till dark. The vibe in the water was amazing and guys were going so big! Im so happy to be here and to be staying with such an amazing family, the roger clan!! The talent in the water is through the roof! The only bummer is that it is so hard to get waves. Most of the time im getting the inside scrapper waves and the odd ramp. To be out in the water with the best guys in the world is so cool though!
Last year at this time I was working 12-15 hours on the weekend and doing school work online for about three hours after work. I would only sleep anywhere from three to five hours. It was a heavy time and I am so glad that season of my life is over and that I am now doing exactly what I have dreamed of doing. God is so good! Loving life! yewww

Revo earlier from the week photo by James Dawson

Last year at this time of the year in a hotel room after a long work day and doing HW exhausted always!