Monday, January 26, 2009

Coming and going

I have been able to get in the water since thursday January 22nd. I pretty much stayed off my foot, iced and rested it all day and made sure not to push it at all. Now it feels a lot better. I got to surf Pipe which was good. It was really crowded, but got a lot less crowded for the evening session which was nice.
I picked up my friend Timmy Hamilton on Friday the 23rd after a very long Pipe session with David Hubbard, he got such a sick DK barrel that it just blew me away pretty much all day. The waves were big and good very stoked.
On saturday Timmy and I tryed to surf for a long time and get as many good waves as we could get. I surfed for 8 1/2 hours and timmy beat me and surfed 9 hours (bummed he beat me haha) We first surfed Pipe then got some food and water and headed to Keiki and surfed with are friends Mike Murphy and Timmy T along with Matt (east coast photographer) and finally headed back to some really fun Pipe till dark! Sooo stoked, definetley my favorite day of the trip so far for sure!
Sunday Timmy Hamilton and I got to surf Off the Wall before church and my friend Jacob Romero did the biggest air reverse I have seen since ive been here! So epic! We then headed to church and it was such a blessing and so cool to catch up with a lot of my friends from the north shore. We headed back to Off the wall got some fun waves for a few hours and then got like the funniest Ehukai session. I think we surfed about 7 hours that day.
I took timmy to the airport this morning. He pretty much came for the weekend and bailed home. He will be missed and I truly think he is going to be somebody to watch for the Pipe contest for sure.

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Traffic after taking timmy to the airport (took so long to get home!)

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Timmy!

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Timmy Hamilton! That yellow board is a new Wave Rebel that he will be trying out! So stoked

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