Sunday, January 18, 2009

Hawaii

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Packed!

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My Bullys board bag! I can fit everything in there!

I was packed up and ready to got to Hawaii like two days before I left. I could not even wait especially with swell on the forecast!
My friend Jacob picked me up from the airport and we got some big plate lunches to fill me up from my flight.
My first session in Hawaii was so unreal. I got to surf Off the Wall with the great one himself MIKE STEWART! He gave me lots and lots of advice for my year and just about everything it was one of the coolest things for sure. Three hours later he had to go so I decided to try and get some waves at Pipe and man Jeff Hubbard was there to greet me along with just owning the session! Spencer Skipper got some sick ones too and it was just so sweet. It was rather un-crowded and the swell was on the rise big time.
The next day I got to surf some BIG waves (only caught two waves) at this local spot my friends took me to, there were actually jet skis out towing guys in to some of the waves and I got my share of beatings, but it was a good thing.

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Having a little car trouble

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Brent driving and eating an acai bowl

The winds were not good for the north shore so we got to head to the eastside on friday and get some really really fun waves.
Saturday was my first time ever surfing on the westside and it was so cool to see some local talent and guys just surfing really well. We also played a super intense game of tennis and I freakin rolled my ankle!!! Man did that hurt! Pray for a fast recovery as I am just trying to let it get 100%. My foot is pretty fat too.
Today Brent, Caleb, and myself went to church in town at this place called One Love and it was really awesome. They had some great food after church and then we headed to Mark Kleins daughters first birthday and it was lots of fun. Mark has played a huge influence in my bodyboarding life and is always there to give me advice and his wisdom.

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Me and Mark

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The Kleins!
It looks like the winds will be getting better for the north shore so I am just praying for a quick recovery.

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