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On Saturday I had my worst sleep yet. Whenever the waves are going to be big its hard for me to sleep cause you constantly think how is it going to be, visualizing yourself hitting the biggest section, and just EXCITEMENT!
The morning finally came (Sunday) and it was stormy and rainy. We still booked it to the beach in anticipation of it hopefully being good. The first sign we saw was the road flooded because of the waves the night before got so big. We parked and saw a lot of the tow guys. Everyone was on the beach just watching. The conditions were horrible because of the hurricane. It made non-stop waves and the fastest current I have ever seen! The guys were saying the biggest ones were 20ft on the face.
When talking to the tow teams they were over it and it got me pretty de hyped. I have been training a lot and I knew if I didn't at least try I would regret it! The tow guys told me good luck, be careful, and they wont be there to save me! lol I kept telling myself this sweet verse from the Bible 2 Timothy 1:7 Chad also got me pumped by saying "If your gonna do it, then DO IT!"
I finally got out there and the current was so strong. I went about 5 football fields in 6 minutes! I got super rocked and had to take a small one in! I walked even farther the next time and was paddling for about 45 minutes straight. The entire time I was just getting PUMPED but wanted to keep going for it. I was getting pretty close and the biggest one landed right on me and just took everything out of me. I was under for what felt like forever and after all that paddling I was exhausted. I had to come in because it was getting to unsafe especially by myself. I was super pumped I gave it a go! If you feel like you can give anything in your life I say try it! The feeling of not trying is the WORST! The next few days look way cleaner!
Frame grabs from Stickney
This view is from the top of a hotel. How sick would it be to ride that thing!
Going for round 2! Look at the waves in the back round! I wish!
I have been watching this video A LOT! RXYM team mate Rusty Friesen CHARGING!!!! The new Bodyboarder is going to have an article on him and Andre Botha from there trip.
The morning finally came (Sunday) and it was stormy and rainy. We still booked it to the beach in anticipation of it hopefully being good. The first sign we saw was the road flooded because of the waves the night before got so big. We parked and saw a lot of the tow guys. Everyone was on the beach just watching. The conditions were horrible because of the hurricane. It made non-stop waves and the fastest current I have ever seen! The guys were saying the biggest ones were 20ft on the face.
When talking to the tow teams they were over it and it got me pretty de hyped. I have been training a lot and I knew if I didn't at least try I would regret it! The tow guys told me good luck, be careful, and they wont be there to save me! lol I kept telling myself this sweet verse from the Bible 2 Timothy 1:7 Chad also got me pumped by saying "If your gonna do it, then DO IT!"
I finally got out there and the current was so strong. I went about 5 football fields in 6 minutes! I got super rocked and had to take a small one in! I walked even farther the next time and was paddling for about 45 minutes straight. The entire time I was just getting PUMPED but wanted to keep going for it. I was getting pretty close and the biggest one landed right on me and just took everything out of me. I was under for what felt like forever and after all that paddling I was exhausted. I had to come in because it was getting to unsafe especially by myself. I was super pumped I gave it a go! If you feel like you can give anything in your life I say try it! The feeling of not trying is the WORST! The next few days look way cleaner!
Frame grabs from Stickney
This view is from the top of a hotel. How sick would it be to ride that thing!
Going for round 2! Look at the waves in the back round! I wish!
I have been watching this video A LOT! RXYM team mate Rusty Friesen CHARGING!!!! The new Bodyboarder is going to have an article on him and Andre Botha from there trip.
posted by Jeremy Wright at
12:20 PM
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