Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Waves, Kreed Sunglasses and January 25th Video

The waves have been good lately. In the last 6 days I have surfed a total of 27 hours! Everyday kind of blurred together. My day's were the same wake up early eat breakfast with my parents, read, go to the beach, boogie all day, go to yoga and study all night!
I had two finals that I completed in this time to! MGT 307 and MGT 350. I passed both classes and learned a lot of new information. Classes have been very challenging and doubling up has required so much of my time! I just started FIN 370 today and it seems like a sweet class! Plus my teacher who I will never meet lived in Long Beach for 10 years and now lives on the beach and traveled his whole life! Pretty sweet!
I will be posting some more shots from the past few days along with some frame grabs of a bunch of my friends and I from Saturday when Robert Isambert came to down to film for his video Ring of Fire 2.
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Nick Arant shot this of me on Friday. He has been getting some really cool angels. He is the type of person who picks up on anything he is into so fast. I can't wait for his website to be up! Its gonna be sick!! You guy's will be some of the first to hear about it on this very site :)

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My sunglass sponsor KREED sent me some of the new shades. Chase Miller just made a quick edit for them! Check it out, its pretty funny!


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SPIDER ENERGY!! Crazy wetsuit neck tan haha

This is yesterday, waves got a lot smaller but more swell on its way! Check back soon

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Back in the water, WAVES, and staying busy

The waves have been good and most of my time has been spent in the water. Im still doing my Yoga classes with my friend Shephanie and Chelsea and its been awesome! Things have been busy! I have been having a crazy amount of reading for school, long papers to write and of course studying!
I got the green light to get in the water on the 11th and went straight to the beach that day. The next day I got summoned to Jury duty and spent all day there. From then on I have been in the water pretty much every day and loving it! I also got to have a sick session with Mark Klein while he was here and go with RXYM team mate Drew Erichson to film down south for there video "This is the END"
I still don't have my Van. Every time I get it back the problem isn't fixed %100 its such a bummer! On top of that I left my camera in it!! Uggg

Such good news!

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ARS sequence by Nick Narant. His skills behind the lens are getting so good! He is also getting a website soon so check back for more info on that!

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About to go out and film with the RXYM team.
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This shot was taken by Matt Byzak so career!!
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Justin Crossman got the sickest invert that day. Here is an ad of him repping the OG fitted hat RXYM is having a massive CLEARANCE sale!!!! Go to rxymfashion.com click STORE, click Clearance and shop! Too easy!

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This was Marty Kooistra's first time using his housing. Marty is really talented and one of those guys that picks up something really fast. I can't wait to shoot with him when its bigger!
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My friend Marty and I

The weather got crazy! Ron Dog got some shots of when the Tornado hit!! Soo crazy! www.rondogshots.com
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Flipped
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Boat Drama
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Ron picked me up and I got to surf LONG BEACH!! This is me picking up a big piece of glass! The beach is filthy that is why I am having a BEACH CLEAN UP in May!!! Stay tune for wayy more info on that! Its going to be sick!!
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Long Beach!!?? weird huh?!?

Today was pretty awesome. Josh Shelly and my coach Jacob Reeves came from up north to surf some waves with me. It was crazy windy stormy surf and the lifeguard was not stoked on us going out at all. In fact Jacob and I were the only guys out. We got a bunch of beatings which is always fun haha
One of the nicest guy's ever Joe Katchka was there to capture the session. He is such an encouraging guy and full of advice! Thanks for the shots Joe!
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Jacob and I
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Riding
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Wiping out haha
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Invert
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Reversing
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Smiles :) My bodyglove suit is so warm!
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Jacob
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Jacob on a foamy one
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Jacob vert
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Sloppy style today
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They save lives
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Flooded
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Jacob, Me, Josh, and Dorin. Yesterday morning Dorin got such a sick invert! Narant photo got the prime shot!

Saturday, January 9, 2010

How the wisdom teeth surgery went, Yoga, Spider Energy Drink, and New phone

I actually don't remember anything from my wisdom teeth surgery at all. When I woke up in the little bed area they walked me to my mom's car. I slept while my mom drove. When we got to our house I was super out of it from all the drugs and just remember walking to my room and collapsing while hitting my head on the wall and was out, just like that! haha My little mexican mom and couldn't move me for the life of her. She called the Doctors and while she was calling them my good friends Jacob, Micah and Matt just happened to stop by my house to say what's up. (A lot of my friends stop by my house daily to hang out, watch bodyboard videos, do HW, eat, etc...) They were busting up laughing and finally picked me up, got me in my bed and four hours later I finally woke up. The crazy thing was that I don't remember a thing. I didn't even knew my friends came by until my mom told me.
The road to recovery has felt like forever but its only been six days. I have been doing a lot of resting and a lot of HW. My diet is pretty much apple sauce, cream of wheat, mashed potatoes, protein drinks, soups etc... Easy foods. I have lost weight which is not good. I usually eat 5-8 meals a day, YES I eat a lot haha
To stay in shape I haven't been able to train really hard yet so I started to go on hour walks, signed up for a Yoga class which I spend atleast 3 hours a day at, and as of today doing light workouts. Im trying to take it easy, rest a lot and just keep these huge holes in my mouth CLEAN and not get infected!
I met with the Doctor yesterday and he said that I would be out of the water for at least another week. Since the waves will be good I have another meeting on tuesday to see if I can get in the water earlier but is very doubtful. The doctors son is a surfer so he knows how dirty the water is by where we live and it is pretty much a guaranteed staph infection ready to happen if I try and rush it. This time last year while I was in Hawaii my best friend Brian got staph from our local spot and it Sucked for him. So I am not in any rush to get sick and possibly ruin or not be able to go on my Hawaii trip which is for over a month.
I will be watching the loads bodyboard videos to stay siked, training as much as I can, and getting ahead in all my school work.
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It's not my board but it will do for now haha Yoga class everyday!

My best friend Kevin Jenkins has a silk screen business and makes shirts. He just made the new Spider Energy tees and they came out super sick. If you need any shirts made contact him at kevin@embraceapparel.com He also picked me up some more cases from them!! Be sure to check out SPIDERS new website it's sick!
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Insane support from them!
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This guy mows my neighbors lawn and was siking on Spider!
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These guys do great work but my dad has me do our lawn haha

I got a new phone before my surgery. The new droid from Motoralla. I think it does everything you can imagine and was awesome. I just didnt like certain things about it so today I returned it and got the other droid phone. It's lighter and I like it way more! The guy who helped us out was also a bodyboarder who went to my same High School as I did which was pretty cool. My sponsor Bodyglove makes a case for the phone I have to!
I am going to be uploading videos to my Youtube from it along with doing Twitter updates with pictures and videos!! So be sure to follow and subscribe to both!
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The Motorola droid
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My new phone! Love it

Sunday, January 3, 2010

More shots, Session with Shaun Gonzales, New years eve, 2010 and surgery finally!

Ron Dog sent me some more shots from this last swell we had at home. He is getting better and better at taking photos each time he shoots! Good job Ron!
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I love this view :)
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Me on a right. This shot was taken by my friend Carlos
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Me on another right insider. Photo was taken by Casey Thorton
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One of Ron's best friends Shawn Meredith got hurt that day in the shorebreak. I got him out of the water and onto the sand. Really sad that he will be out of the water. He fractured his ankle and his fibula (near his knee). He also tore his ligament that holds his ankle together. He has surgery on Tuesday the 5th and will be down for 3 months! Pray for a quick recovery for him
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My friend Tony Ung was stoked to be home, catch up with friends and to and not have NO school!
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My friend Dustin on a sick left
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My shaper Jimmy Linvelle came to town and got some sick ones. Pretty much all the locals get there boards shaped by him.
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Denis on a sick one
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Dorin Buchanan is only 18 and is killing it! Plus he only lives a couple of blocks from here
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Another up an coming local kid. Jeremy Poe who is only 16 years old!
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Beautiful
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One of my favorite shots of all time! Mike cheering on the homie. This is priceless!

New years eve was really fun and really busy. My friend Shaun Gonzales is in the United States Air force and was in town for the holidays and all he wanted to do while he was home was surf!
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Shaun stoked to be at the beach
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Nice day and some waves
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Small peak down the beach
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Shaun and I.

I finally got my van back and my friend Kimleng took me to pick it up. It was working fine but started to act up again on saturday so I have to take it back.
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The homie Kimleng and I! Thanks for the ride ill probably need another one soon haha

Later that day I met up with some friends to play handball. I try and do anything to stay active and hand ball wounded up being really fun, and of course it got competitive but in the end I did not end up the champ haha That night we watched the Travis Pastrana jump and went to a few friends parties downtown.
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Handball!! I felt like I was in 3rd grade again! Sweet!
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Little D wounded up winning the Handball New Years eve game
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Milo driving to the new years eve party. Multi tasking of course haha
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Shane is one funny guy haha

I am getting my wisdom teeth surgery on monday so I will be out of the water for a while. I hope it goes well!
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My new calendars and to do list I made. They came out sick and will help keep me on track along with get things done..like HOMEWORK! haha
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Staying organized