Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Brents 21st Birthday

Yesterday was my friend/roomate/photographer 21st birthday! BRENT BIELMAN The day was jammed pack and started it off right by doing a "Wright" tradition. That is waking up really early and singing happy birthday with some sort of food (we used a peach this time). We then had to tow the volvo to get it fixed up (that was pretty intense, especially cruising around the north shore by a rope! haha) We then hiked up to Mount Akea and just saw some of the most beautiful scenary. We snuck onto this air strip and just went super fast in his truck which was a huge adrenalin rush. When we got home we headed straight to the beach and got some water time in which was awesome! All I needed was my trunks, fins, boards, and my Zinka sunscreen. I had to do some homework for a few hours. When I was done doing my homework I was starving and some of his close family and friends came over for dinner. His aunties and dad made a great dinner and he got lots of cool gifts. After dinner we went to the movies and saw Underworld. All in all it was a great time to celebrate his 21st birthday!

Towing the volvo

Mount Akea

Me on top of the Mountain

Me and the birthday boy

His dad making the dinner

Praying for the food

My plate of food! It tasted better than it looks the curry was delicious


Brent and the Watermelon I got him haha

A video from the mountain top. I just made my own youtube page so you can subscribe to that and get all the latest news

Monday, January 26, 2009

Coming and going

I have been able to get in the water since thursday January 22nd. I pretty much stayed off my foot, iced and rested it all day and made sure not to push it at all. Now it feels a lot better. I got to surf Pipe which was good. It was really crowded, but got a lot less crowded for the evening session which was nice.
I picked up my friend Timmy Hamilton on Friday the 23rd after a very long Pipe session with David Hubbard, he got such a sick DK barrel that it just blew me away pretty much all day. The waves were big and good very stoked.
On saturday Timmy and I tryed to surf for a long time and get as many good waves as we could get. I surfed for 8 1/2 hours and timmy beat me and surfed 9 hours (bummed he beat me haha) We first surfed Pipe then got some food and water and headed to Keiki and surfed with are friends Mike Murphy and Timmy T along with Matt (east coast photographer) and finally headed back to some really fun Pipe till dark! Sooo stoked, definetley my favorite day of the trip so far for sure!
Sunday Timmy Hamilton and I got to surf Off the Wall before church and my friend Jacob Romero did the biggest air reverse I have seen since ive been here! So epic! We then headed to church and it was such a blessing and so cool to catch up with a lot of my friends from the north shore. We headed back to Off the wall got some fun waves for a few hours and then got like the funniest Ehukai session. I think we surfed about 7 hours that day.
I took timmy to the airport this morning. He pretty much came for the weekend and bailed home. He will be missed and I truly think he is going to be somebody to watch for the Pipe contest for sure.

Traffic after taking timmy to the airport (took so long to get home!)


Timmy Hamilton! That yellow board is a new Wave Rebel that he will be trying out! So stoked

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Healing up

Doing homework and resting the ankle

Waves yesterday looked really fun but I was not able to go out because of my ankle injury. Today it felt a lot better and the swelling has gone down a lot which is a good sign. The waves today were not that good and the wind was straight on shore and not to good. The next two days do not look the best so that will make everything way easier for me to handle not being able to boogie. Saturday looks like the next good day so I plan on going out then, man I can't wait till then. Please keep praying for a 100% recovery. The time out of the water has been allowing me to get a little ahead with my school work at my University. Also my time in the word has been amazing and catching up with all my e-mails and everything has been pretty sweet too.
Since I can finally walk a little with out as much pain I made today a straight cleaning day. I got to get a lot of stuff done at my friend Brents house from sweeping, re-organizing everything, taking the tree down, etc..

If youre christmas tree is still up it is probably time to take it down haha Also this thing will be up in flames this weekend! Photos to come!


Sunday, January 18, 2009



My Bullys board bag! I can fit everything in there!

I was packed up and ready to got to Hawaii like two days before I left. I could not even wait especially with swell on the forecast!
My friend Jacob picked me up from the airport and we got some big plate lunches to fill me up from my flight.
My first session in Hawaii was so unreal. I got to surf Off the Wall with the great one himself MIKE STEWART! He gave me lots and lots of advice for my year and just about everything it was one of the coolest things for sure. Three hours later he had to go so I decided to try and get some waves at Pipe and man Jeff Hubbard was there to greet me along with just owning the session! Spencer Skipper got some sick ones too and it was just so sweet. It was rather un-crowded and the swell was on the rise big time.
The next day I got to surf some BIG waves (only caught two waves) at this local spot my friends took me to, there were actually jet skis out towing guys in to some of the waves and I got my share of beatings, but it was a good thing.

Having a little car trouble

Brent driving and eating an acai bowl

The winds were not good for the north shore so we got to head to the eastside on friday and get some really really fun waves.
Saturday was my first time ever surfing on the westside and it was so cool to see some local talent and guys just surfing really well. We also played a super intense game of tennis and I freakin rolled my ankle!!! Man did that hurt! Pray for a fast recovery as I am just trying to let it get 100%. My foot is pretty fat too.
Today Brent, Caleb, and myself went to church in town at this place called One Love and it was really awesome. They had some great food after church and then we headed to Mark Kleins daughters first birthday and it was lots of fun. Mark has played a huge influence in my bodyboarding life and is always there to give me advice and his wisdom.

Me and Mark

The Kleins!
It looks like the winds will be getting better for the north shore so I am just praying for a quick recovery.

Sunday, January 11, 2009

The BIG update

You can listen to the edited version of my interview on the London Garcia Show or on my myspace. It was a lot of fun and it came out pretty funny so be sure to check it out!
My friend TJ from New York headed back on Monday January 5th, but got some awesome waves before leaving which is always a good feeling. We were pretty much non stop on the go the whole time he was here and just had a blast!
TJ loving the taquitos in LA

I started school on Tuesday January 6th and it has been taking a lot of my time. I really thrive under pressure and love making time management grids to help me juggle everything going on, so it has been a very fun and challenging last week!
I have been able to get a lot of water time pretty much everyday from Monday til today. It was totally bizarre surfing some summer time spots in the winter! I was really suprised but the waves were really good, along with the condition and weather! I was able to log in about 4-8 hour sessions everyday!
I got some new custom Wave Rebel bodyboards shaped by Jimmy Linvelle for my Hawaii trip which was really sweet. I am really looking forward to these black bottom beauties haha
Jimmy checking out my old dead beat boogs



Black bottom pearls haha

Buddy jacked my rail!

End results! Stoked!

After I got my boards shaped I got to stop by Bullys The owner Steve was there to set me up for my Hawaii trip and talk some stories about his upcoming Panama trip!
Steve and my new leashes!

I rushed over to Kreed to meet with my team manager Randy and checked out the new "Fortress" headquarters! WOW, did they upgrade or what! The place is huge and Randy and I were joking about making a tree house contraption and living in it with all the space they have haha I love visiting the Fort and just being encouraged by everyone there!
Randy in his zone

Perfect for all the snow we have in the mountains!

Loving the green wall and my sunglasses!

Finally to finish off the day I stopped by Alternative Surf and got my new babies stamped up by big NICK!
Nick making sure everything's perfect since I always mess up somehow haha

The next day, (January 9th) I got to stop by Bodyglove and get loaded up with a bunch of new board shorts, a spring suit, and the goods. They are such a sweet company and Todd is the man!
Todd doing work!

I finally got to end everything off with stopping by the Wave Rebel headquarters and get lunch with the famous Mike Maslowski! He pretty much runs the show and has the coolest dog named Roscoe.
Today was pretty tiny with perfect conditions. Had lots of homework and an excellent meal with the family.
Also our family friends Johnny and Tina stopped by with their "new" car.
Sweet Car!

Friday, January 2, 2009

The London Garcia Show

Tommorow (January 3rd) I will be doing my first live radio interview on the London Garcia show at 5pm (PST) on L.A talk radio. Be sure to check the super nice introduction she gave me on her blog. Here are all the links to inform you about london garcia;





www.latalkradio.com (you can listen to the show "live" online, through an iPhone, through a Blackberry, or a wi-fi radio)


After being deprived of waves for which seems like forever I finally was able to take a quick road trip up north to get some fun waves. The first day was the 31st (New Years eve) woke up early surfed the first spot for a couple hours that had a few wedges, went on this awesome hike to a waterfall with a couple friends and just relaxed and try to image how cool 2009 is going to be!!, surfed again till the sun went down and got to witness this amazing sunsest. Waves were about 4-6ft maybe a few bigger ones but just fun.
I started the new year off right on the Jan 1st. By getting in the word, doing my Yoga zone dvd, surfing this spot for a couple hours that had a few really fun corners and ramps, having a little lunch and surfed a reef with my friend till I had to go. Took the long drive back home and just was so content with how everything went!

Good bye 2008 HELLO 2009!! haha

Emmas Birthday!

My sister in law Emmas B'day was on the 29th. We got to watch my niece cassia while my brother Jas and her went out to eat. I baked a chocolate cake with chocolate frosting for her and we all pretty much demolished it.

The birthday girl

Jas and Emma