Bye Puerto Escondido and Hello Puerto Rico!!

My last night in Puerto we went out to get some flan to celebrate an epic trip. On our way back to the hotel we saw some waves. I convinced Raul to go out with me since he has never night surfed. The waves had a glow to them in the barrels and it was just awesome!

After our night boogie session

The next morning I woke up early and started cranking out my HW. I knew I was going to be traveling for 30+ hours before I got to Puerto Rico so it was really important to get as much done since it is my last week for this class. Once the maid came I packed my stuff in like 5 minutes, went to the beach and had my last session, took Raul to lunch as a thank you, got a postcard for Kylie, took a shower and loaded up the car. I got to the bus station and was straight off to Oaxaca airport!

Taking out Raul and thanking him for letting us use his car and cruise at his place.

Stickney and I cruised mainland Mexico for the last six weeks together. See ya in Cali stickney!!

I wore a cowboy hat this bus ride because my last bus ride 10 out of 10 guys had them I wanted to blend in more and even shaved this weird go tee thing on my face ha-ha
The bus stopped at this restaurant and I was starving. I have NEVER gotten a free meal at a restaurant in Mexico but I somehow managed to score one this trip! The bus driver told me the waitress thought I was cute but I just told him it was all the hat!
It took 12 hours and I arrived at 2am to the bus station.
I got a taxi to take me to the airport and picked the worst guy! He told me one price but once we started driving he raised it! He threatened to pull over and drop me off on the side of the road if I didn’t pay the extra. The funny thing was he wanted an extra 40 pesos, which is like $2.50 in the U.S so I fully paid the extra!
The road was blocked off and the gate wouldn’t open till 5am so that’s where he left me.
It was about 4 miles from the airport. I was super tired and was super confused on what just happened. I mean I was just on the side of a road It is really important to stay positive while you travel because a lot of things are going to happen and you just have to go with it and make the most of the situation. That is exactly what I did. I made this sick little fort. I used my towels as a mat, had my pillow and just slept for like 3 hours with all my stuff on top of me and this huge blanket over all of it. I woke up to these two guys just staring at me. They asked what I was doing and I told them “Waiting for the gate to open.” I gave them a few muffins and made small talk. The gate opened and I got a ride to my terminal! Saved 4 miles of walking with all my gear, Stoked!!!

My stuff

The first stage of my bed and fort!

Getting a ride from the gate and saving some walking time with all my stuff

After 14 hours of flights, layovers, airport cruising, and donating my hat to a little kid I finally got to Puerto Rico!!
I am staying with Babby Quinones and can’t be any happier. Babby is a complete legend. Right when I got to his house he showed me his new video he is making! It is super good! He also showed me his trophy’s (two of them are second place at PIPE) and a few photo albums of him bodyboarding all around the world! They were Epic and it inspired me to make some sort of scratch book when I get home.
I also got to get some local food that was delicious!
We went to the beach this morning and it was pretty small but a fun little reef. The waves look like they are going to get BIG in a few days so it should be sick!
I already know I am going to fall in love this place!

At the airport

Babby showing me some of his albums. There like history books full of photos! So sick!

This entire week the waves look good and will be getting BIG! So excited! I hope everyone has a fun and safe Halloween!

Mexico Video Teaser, More Traveling and Waves

Little teaser Chad made, some bodyboarding edits coming soon!

The waves the next day after that big day cleaned up a lot! It was still solid and the tow teams were on it. Since they watched me the day before paddeling forever Brian Conoley's tow partner gave me a ride out to the lineup. That saved me alot of energy for my five hour session. The waves were sick and there was LOTS of paddling to be done. The only down side was that since there were 7 skis in the water every really good clean big wave that came in they were on it. It was sick to see but you get envious lol I managed to get a couple scrapper ones but had so much fun just being out in the big waves.that day still.
My friend Omar Leon got there a few days before we left. It was great to catch up with him. He just got married and his wife and him are just cruising all around Mexico. My third trip ever to Puerto I took with him and his brother. They are both super rad and every time I get to hang out or catch up with them its just awesome! I hope him and his wife have a sweet time cruising all around Mexico!
We left that area and took a nice 10 hour drive back to our friend Raul's place.

So fun! Im in there :)

The Leons

I did not want to leave, saying bye to la playa

Bye hotel

What I looked at for most of the car ride back

We stayed with Raul for a few day and got a few really fun sessions. Chad and I were trying to get a few different angles and scored on a few! That same day Mike the photographer headed back to california. Mike aka Chunk was great such a good edition to the trip and his skills behind the lens were epic!.

Loved this beach! The water was so clear and the waves were so fun! No boogie shots cause Chad is editing them :) He is a busy guy!

Before we left this kid got my board

People we didn't even know stopped by when they heard we were leaving just to say bye! Pretty cool bodyboarding community for sure!

We then had a nice 13 hour car ride from Raul's place back to Puerto Escondido. We arrived late last night durig this crazy rain storm. The lightning was incredible and I am so stoked we made it here safely!
We got to get in the water twice today which is always fun. Chad lost his go pro with like an hour worth of footage. I hope we randomly find it on the beach but doubt it.

Raul is a good driver....nice drink lol

What I do best on long car rides haha

Getting in the water after traveling is the BEST thing you can do

Blinking

DK

Warm water always puts a smile on my face

Access Denied

On Saturday I had my worst sleep yet. Whenever the waves are going to be big its hard for me to sleep cause you constantly think how is it going to be, visualizing yourself hitting the biggest section, and just EXCITEMENT!
The morning finally came (Sunday) and it was stormy and rainy. We still booked it to the beach in anticipation of it hopefully being good. The first sign we saw was the road flooded because of the waves the night before got so big. We parked and saw a lot of the tow guys. Everyone was on the beach just watching. The conditions were horrible because of the hurricane. It made non-stop waves and the fastest current I have ever seen! The guys were saying the biggest ones were 20ft on the face.
When talking to the tow teams they were over it and it got me pretty de hyped. I have been training a lot and I knew if I didn't at least try I would regret it! The tow guys told me good luck, be careful, and they wont be there to save me! lol I kept telling myself this sweet verse from the Bible 2 Timothy 1:7 Chad also got me pumped by saying "If your gonna do it, then DO IT!"
I finally got out there and the current was so strong. I went about 5 football fields in 6 minutes! I got super rocked and had to take a small one in! I walked even farther the next time and was paddling for about 45 minutes straight. The entire time I was just getting PUMPED but wanted to keep going for it. I was getting pretty close and the biggest one landed right on me and just took everything out of me. I was under for what felt like forever and after all that paddling I was exhausted. I had to come in because it was getting to unsafe especially by myself. I was super pumped I gave it a go! If you feel like you can give anything in your life I say try it! The feeling of not trying is the WORST! The next few days look way cleaner!

Frame grabs from Stickney

This view is from the top of a hotel. How sick would it be to ride that thing!

Going for round 2! Look at the waves in the back round! I wish!


I have been watching this video A LOT! RXYM team mate Rusty Friesen CHARGING!!!! The new Bodyboarder is going to have an article on him and Andre Botha from there trip.

Mainland Mexico and USBA Magazine Profile Interview

I have been having so much fun since we have gotten to this new area. I have never been here and I LOVE it! It is really mellow (besides last night when I was looking for a postcard lol) not much to to do besides be in the water and do my homework! Which is PERFECT!
I surf all morning till the afternoon cause that is when the onshore comes. There are a few other spots to go to when it turns onshore at the main break, and since we have a car its been very beneficial!
The waves are big a lot of the time here and I have been really encouraged by this quote! "Everything that scares you is an opportunity to know your best self better"-Robin Sharma

Thanks Mike for the shots!!

Right

Lefty

Hey!

While I am out the whole time chad usually films first, then surfs, then films some more! He has been editing his next video and its coming out SWEET!

Trying to ride this..FAIL

Love this place!!

Mike's skills behind the lens + good waves=This

9 Hours in the car is becoming too easy lately

Our place

Fish, bread, eggs and hot sauce

Kitchen and bathroom

Luis is on the waves everyday and always brings us bags of fruit! Gracias Luis!

Before

After

The new USBA magazine came out yesterday! I have a Profile interview in it which is sweet!! I did the interview in May so have that in mind when you read it :)

Photo by my best friend Kuch and read the article HERE

Long Beach Article, Waves, Crocodiles, Basketball, and more driving

The Gazette just wrote an article on me! Super stoked on the local Long Beach love! Click HERE to read it!

This is the shot they used. Photo by Jeff Yusa

Having a positive attitude when you know the waves are not going to be the best is the best way to stay stoked and have fun in the water. The waves have not been the greatest but its still been fun! I mean the water is the best temperature, the beach is nice and there are wedgey peaks everywhere! We spend a lot of time at the beach and I was able to bodyboard, bodysurf, stand up boogie, Dk, Skim, and butt board! No matter how the waves are get out there and have fun!

Coming in from a fun bodysurf session

I was talking about Dinosaurs the other day after I caught this lizard on the beach. Chad brought up how he knew about a place to check out crocodiles. I have not seen a crocodile since Costa Rica so I was pretty happy to see them again!

Hey there

Creepy

Bye!

Sign

I have been reading a book on Pete Maravich right now and have been loving it! The book is full of awesome stories and great quotes that will challenge you to do better in whatever you do. The more I read the book the more I want to keep training! He was such a nut case and all he thought about was basketball! Kind of like me and bodyboarding, I love it! This is my second book on basketball in two months! The other one was called Slam Dunk and that was really encouraging too! They both got me excited to play some BASKETBALL! Chad is 6'10 and was into the idea of smashing me on the court so we found a ball, a court and had a blast!
All Photos by Mike Marincovich


Not in my house CHAD!

Focus

Hops

One second left...blew it!

Alright

There we go!

Did not feel good on the feet

BOOM!

We went out tonight to take our friend Raul out to eat and say thanks for letting us crash at his place. We packed up and are leaving bright and early tomorrow morning to our next destination. I cant wait especially since we are going to be surfing a few spots on the way there and there is a lot more swell on the horizon!

Yes thats a mustache coming in! haha

Never a dull moment with these guys!